It’s a tough little black box that gives you 4, 8, 12, or 16 smart switches. Each one can handle 10 amps and do whatever you want: stay on, turn off after a few seconds, flash SOS, strobe, custom patterns, etc.

You set it up once with your phone or laptop (takes a minute), hit Save, and you’re done forever. It remembers everything even if the battery dies.

After that you control it however you like:

• Plug in a number keypad and mash buttons (optional)
• Use the built-in web page or phone app
• Or just let it turn on automatically with the key

Designed and built from the ground up for automotive voltage (9–16 V). Hook it straight to your car, truck, golf cart, side-by-side, or buggy battery – no converters, no regulators, no drama. Starts at 7 V during cranking and laughs at 16 V spikes.

No internet, no cloud, no subscription.
Wire it, set it once, forget it.
Made in the USA and built to live under dashes forever.

That’s the Dual Gnome Dual Switch. Simple. Tough. Done.

(Start here – fixes almost everything)

1. Blue power LED is completely off
   → No power to the brain.
   Check:
   Thick red wire = solid 12 V
   Thick black wire = solid chassis ground
   Thin remote wire = 12 V when key is ON
   
2. Blue LED is on, but one or more channels are dead
   → Blown 10 A per-channel fuse.
   Check the row of blade fuses on the side/top and replace any with a broken metal strip.
3. Blue LED is on, channels work from the web page, but keypad does nothing
   Possible causes:
   Bad keypad or USB cable → plug in any regular computer keyboard and press 1–9 (or 1-0 A-F on 16-ch). If a normal keyboard works, replace the keypad/cable.
   Weak/noisy power or ground → the blue LED can light up on very little voltage, but relays and the USB port need clean 9–16 V and a rock-solid ground.
   Test: temporarily run thick jumper wires straight from the battery (+ and –). If the keypad suddenly works, upgrade your power/ground wiring.
   
4. Still completely dead after the above
   → Rare internal fault.
   Contact me (email or DM on the website) with a couple photos of your wiring and I’ll take care of repair or replacement.

That’s it – 99.9 % of issues are power, ground, fuses, or the keypad. The rest we fix.

Each channel is a 12 V high-side relay output with its own 10 A fuse.

• Direct load: You can connect any load up to 10 A straight to the channel.
• Triggering bigger loads: Use the channel to pull in any external relay, contactor, or solenoid coil you want. The channel itself only ever sees the tiny coil current, so the load on the far side can be as large as you like — no practical upper limit.

In short:
10 A direct, unlimited when used as a trigger.
Both methods are completely normal and safe — you choose whichever fits your project.

As long as the total load doesn't exceed 10A you can connect as many devices as you like. Which will all have the same behavior for power output for each relay.

First-Time Setup (takes 45 seconds)

1. Power it up (plug in 12 V or flip the rocker to ON).
2. On your phone/laptop, go to Wi-Fi settings.
3. Connect to the network named:
   Dual Gnome Dual Switch
   Password: 12345678
   (Android will whine “No internet” — ignore it and tap “Stay connected”)
4. Open any web browser → type:
   192.168.4.1
5. Boom — you’re in the full web app. Change names, set behaviors, etc.

How to set up your Dual Gnome Dual Switch – 30-second version (for customers)

1. Power it on
2. Connect phone/laptop to Dual Gnome Dual Switch (password 12345678)
3. Open browser → 192.168.4.1
4. RIGHT AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE
   There’s a dropdown that says “4 / 8 / 12 / 16 Switches”
   4-channel version → pick 4 Switches
   8-channel version → pick 8 Switches
   12-channel version → pick 12 Switches
   16-channel version → pick 16 Switches
   (The page refreshes and hides the channels you didn’t pay for. It remembers this forever.)
   
5. Now name your channels, pick behaviors (Timed, Morse, Strobe, etc.), set boot states, whatever you want.
6. When finished → scroll down and hit SAVE CHANGES

How to configure the Dual Gnome Dual Switch (the stuff people actually care about)

You’re already connected to the web page (192.168.4.1 or its home IP). Now just do this:

1. Give it a name (optional but nice)
   Tap the text box that says “Switch 1”, “Switch 2”, etc.
   Type whatever you want → click/tap anywhere else.
   It saves automatically.
2. Choose what each channel does
   Under each switch there’s a dropdown. Pick one:
   Non-Momentary → normal on/off toggle
   Timed Duration → turns on for X seconds then off
   Strobe → 200 ms blink forever
   Oversize Load → 8 big pulses for inrush stuff
   SOS → classic …---…
   Morse Code → type your own dots/dashes
   Pulse Train → 1–10 pulses with custom on/off times
   As soon as you pick it, extra boxes appear if needed.
3. Set the extra stuff (only shows up when you need it)
   Timed Duration → type seconds (0.01 to 60)
   Morse Code → type only dots and dashes, e.g. .... . .-.. .-.. ---
   Pulse Train → set how many pulses + on-time + off-time
   All of these save instantly when you click away.
4. Choose what happens when you power it on
   Dropdown that says “ON at Boot” or “OFF at Boot” → pick the one you want.
5. Make everything permanent
   When you’re done messing with everything, scroll to the bottom and hit the big
   SAVE CHANGES button
   (If you yank power before hitting Save, it forgets everything.)

Yes – any standard USB HID keypad or regular keyboard works.

• It does not have to match your channel count.
  Plug a 4-key keypad into a 16-channel box → keys 1–4 control channels 1–4, the other 12 channels stay active and run whatever boot behavior you programmed.
• Only one keypad/keyboard at a time (single USB port).

Quick buying guide so you don’t waste money:

• Cheap $5–$12 “programmable macro pads” from AliExpress/Temu/eBay → usually arrive blank or with weird firmware and have to be reprogrammed to send normal number keys before the Dual Switch sees them.

I sell properly programmed, plug-and-play numeric keypads on the website that are guaranteed to work the second you plug them in (4-key, 8-key, 12-key, 16-key versions). You’re welcome to use whatever you want, but if you’d rather not mess with flashing firmware, just grab one from me and you’re done in 3 seconds.

No. The keypad is completely optional.

• You can run the box forever with nothing plugged into the USB port.
• All channels stay 100 % functional and will follow whatever behavior and boot-state you programmed.
• Example: on a 4-channel unit you can plug in a 3-key keypad – keys 1-2-3 control channels 1-2-3 directly, channel 4 still works exactly the same, it just doesn’t have a physical key.

Leave the USB port empty if you want – no keypad required, ever.

Note:
You technically can toggle switches from the web app, but in the current firmware version it’s not recommended for daily control (it’s meant for setup only).